Laying Out My Beekeeper’s Quilt

Last week, while I mulled over the implications of the Challenge Three Twist for the Fiber Factor, I spent a couple hours laying out some of my hexipuffs (over which I have over 400, yikes!).  I had already (mostly) sorted them into broad categories:

  • Red/Pink/Purple
  • Orange/Yellow
  • Green/Blue
  • Neutral
  • Multi-colored (no dominant color)

I could see after sorting that about half my puffs fit into a color group.  Of these, about half were Red/Pink/Purple.  I had very little Orange/Yellow, so I started with those, then transitioned to green/blue. I’m trying to put the more “pure” colors near the bottom edge, shading into more “muddy” or striped puffs towards the top (where they can blend into the neutral and multi puffs, later on).

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I was on a roll, so I broke out the pink/red/purple! I put the warmer ones on the orange side, and the cooler ones on the blue side — plenty to cover both ends, since I had so many in this color grouping.

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That’s where I stopped! I want to let this layout settle for a couple days — I will play with it a bit, then sew them in place. It can be helpful to view in black and white, when making big color choices … helps see the values of the different colors:

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CO Monday: Mesa and Lustre Design Projects

This week I started two new design projects!

The first is for Classic Elite’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection — so, even though I’ll be done with the design and sample in a few short weeks, I won’t be able to share until that collection debuts early next year.  But, I want to give CEY Mesa a plug! Both in swatching and in the actual garment, this 100% cotton yarn is delightfully plush. I love the subtle tonal colorways.

The second project is something you’ll get to see a bit sooner! I’m working on a one-skein project for A Hundred Ravens Lustre (aka Luster DK on Ravelry).  It’s a nicely spun merino/silk blend, hand-dyed by local dyer Kate.  The silk blend takes yarn differently than pure wool, with smoother blends between hues and a beautiful, well, luster.  (This all makes me think of this couplet: The moon on the breast of the new-fallen snow/Gave the lustre of mid-day to objects below.) With only 231 yards to work with, I’ve got quite a challenge to make something dramatic!  I’ve decided to go with a VERY open lacy stole, with lace patterning on both right-side and wrong-side rows.

Here’s my skein of Lustre:

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Coordinating Contrast: the cure for Second Mitten Syndrome

Christine (of Christine Guest Designs) has been blogging about Coordinating Contrast Mittens for a while now. It’s kind of brilliant — knit two mittens from two different patterns, so you don’t get bored.  If you use the same yarn, it’s all good — one can tell your fraternal mittens are meant to be a pair.

She featured my Daisy Ruth Mittens as a potential match for her Holly Mittens — I think they’re a good match!

Knit With Me: Feb 16th, 2013

I’ve been a little lazy about scheduling classes on my Saturdays at the Hub Mills Store.  But, last weekend, I had a pair of customers who both really wanted to take an open-ended class — they want to work on THEIR projects, but with help from an experienced knitter.  I planned a “Knit With a Teacher” class on the spot, and both signed up. For now I am limiting enrollment to six knitters — I want to make sure I’ll be able to help everyone without long waits.  If you are in the area, please join us! Here is the blurb:

Knit With a Teacher: Rachel Henry

or, “Oh My! What Have I Done?”

Sat, Feb 16th / 10 am to noon — $20

Solve a problem, ask for advice, learn something new! Expert knitter Rachel Henry leads this two-hour workshop focusing on your projects and knitting skills. Possible topics include planning projects, finishing techniques, fixing mistakes, color work, lace, reading charts, steeks, mobius knitting, Magic Loop, cables, and more. Curious about Continental or Portuguese knitting methods? Need help rescuing a project? Determined to knit your first pair of socks? You are the boss of your knitting! Bring your works-in-progress, your questions, and dream projects. We’ll have a great time knitting together.

Students receive a 10% discount on purchases on the day of class. Please call to reserve your place — class is limited to 6 knitters. (978) 408-2176

Dyeing with A Hundred Ravens

Last fall I met Kate, aka A Hundred Ravens, at the Fiber Festival of New England. When I say “met” … I mean I drooled over the yarn and roving in her booth, bought some of each, and staggered on to the next booth.  Our whole group of mad knitters agreed her colors were most excellent.  Later on, I spun up the gorgeous teal roving I bought from her, and made a cowl.  At some point I joined the Ravelry group for A Hundred Ravens. I noticed (how could I not!) that Kate was looking for designers to make patterns featuring her yarn.  Since I knew I’d be doing a second collection of one-skein shawls, highlighting indy dyers, it seemed like a match made in heaven!

Eventually we both got organized at the same time, and Kate invited me over to help dye the yarn for the shawl I was designing — wow!  I couldn’t have been more thrilled.  I dug around in my stash, turning up an undyed skein of rustic wool from a farmer’s market, plus I asked her to help my fix some “problem” yarn I’d received as part of a friend’s destash. Then, like a crazy person, I visited Mind’s Eye and bought two handfuls of merino roving and a big skein of Kona sport superwash. Yes, that’s right … I showed up on a stranger’s doorstep with a whole bag full of undyed stuff.  I have to admit I was a little worried that I would overstep the bounds of good guest manners….. but Kate was super welcoming and said I could dye any and all.

Let’s start with the yarn I was there to “help” dye — Iachos in the Styx colorway (newest iteration). Throughout the afternoon of dyeing, please know that the majority of work and so forth was Kate’s — she directed me and let me play, and I’d stammer out “maybe green?” and she’d produce a magical deep emerald color. So, credit goes to her in all cases — any mistakes are mine to own.

My two skeins of Styx:

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Next up: my farmer’s marker wool. I’ve had it since 2009, and I always wanted it to be robin’s-egg blue with brown spots (you know, like the real eggs).  That’s all I had to say, to turn this …

9215 Signal Rock Farm undyed wool yarn

… into this:

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It’s like magic! 🙂  I put on the brown spots myself, with a juice box straw.

I brought six skeins of KP Shimmer in a … shall we say, “difficult” colorway: Grape Hyacinth  Quick side story … some months ago, a totally unrelated person gave me five skeins of this exact colorway.  She had swatched with it and been unable to find anything that worked.  Laceweight yarn, with short color repeats of deep purple, bright white, and anemic mint green:

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It’s one of those colorways that looks ok on the skein, but the color repeats are so short, and the contrast so great … it’s really hard to knit it into anything that looks remotely nice. I read through the project notes for Grape Hyacinth Shimmer, and was shocked by the amount of frogging and the number of people who planned to over-dye the finished object.  I also didn’t find any projects that looked amazing … bah.  So, those five skeins went to “for sale or trade”

1330 rehomed lace yarn

Goodbye, crazy yarn! May you turn magically into something pretty.

Imagine my consternation and surprise when I opened up a big bag of free “good” yarn from a friend …. and saw six more skeins of this obstinate colorway. What?? I guess no one knows what to make of it. Thanks to the wonders of an expert dyer, I was able to turn this …

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… into this:

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Now I have 2600+ yards of totally pretty lace-weight yarn. If I can track down my copy of the Second Book of Modern Lace Knitting, perhaps this will become a Rose of England.

One important thing I learned from Kate is that superwash wool takes up dye like it’s going out of style, and untreated wool just lies there, looking wan and hopeless.  I really, really lie the “Ashes of Roses” look to this roving …

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… but you’d never guess we’d dipped it in rich purple and black. For the other hank of roving, Kate sent me home with a bottle of green dye. I put the roving in a bowl full of dye and microwaved it for 8 minutes. Heat did the trick!

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Last but not even a little bit least, my kona sportweight — totally beautiful.

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Thank you Kate! It was awesome to dye with you.

Fiber Festival of New England (2012)

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A few weeks ago, one of my knitting friends suggested we check out the big Fiber Festival at the Big E Fairgrounds in Springfield, MA. Everyone thought it looked interesting!  We ended up with five people in two carpools go on Sunday (the second and final day of the fair).

Now is the time that I admit I have never been to ANY fiber/stitching/knitting cons of any kind. I know.

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Now that you are over the shock of it all, I want to say how happy I was to smell sheep when I walked in the building! The whole front half of the Mallory complex was devoted to vendors with animals, so we got to meet and greet alpaca, sheep of many flavors, angora bunnies, and even a fainting goat.

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I got to cuddle with a friendly and fluffy angora bunny!

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I think my favorite stand was Long Island Livestock Company.  I’m sorry to say that their website is a little bare (“under construction”), but I can report that everyone I met at their stand (including the spotty mama llama below) was lovely, helpful, and educational.  They were one of the first stalls I visited, so I made a note … they are the ONLY stand I managed to return to.  Their roving was memorably luscious!

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These two are now mine! 🙂

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The show had a large variety of items related to fiber without actually being roving or yarn — for example, check out these awesome hats!

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But, in the end, we mostly bought yarn and fiber.  Here are a few glamour shots of a five-person haul from a fiber fest:

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I personally succumbed to the siren call of drop spindling.  Sigh.  It turns out it is SUPER ADDICTIVE.  Help.  All this is mine.  There is only one skein of yarn in there!  Shout out the A Hundred Ravens (who also dyed the teal braid).  I absolutely loved ALL her color choices.  I also had the pleasure of meeting the Knittink girl.  I discovered her yarns at Gather Here, and I was delighted to buy the bright red-orange roving from her. I know the name of the llama who contributed fleece to the pink-white bag, and I picked up the purple-green “mill ends” bag of roving to practice on.  (I do so love purple!)  I’ve already spun and plied about half the bag.  Did I mention how addictive this is?

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Help a Fellow Knitter! or, Remily Knits Loves Zombies and Reality TV

Hey all — you may remember my mentioning Craftlit once or a dozen times over the last few years.  It remains one of my favorite podcasts — reading books! making stuff! — if it had reality TV and zombies I would marry this podcast.

ANYway, the hostess of Craftlit is in a tricky spot with her younger child.  He had some fancy surgery several years ago to fix an ear defect, and he needs a repair ASAP in order to ensure that he doesn’t lose his new ear. Ms. Craftlit has sorted out the housing and airfare for the trip (the ear surgeon is in CA).  To raise a “food and other emergency” fund, she’s having a bit of a sale.

If you are so inclined, you can hop on over to her blog and read more about the situation and, more importantly, the myriad ways you too can help.  Things that might especially interest my (knitting) readers… she’s running a sale on her patterns, you could buy WWMDfK or preorder WeWMDpK.  (I made the Wilhemina Shawlette from the first book.)

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There are a lot of other cool knitting and literature things on her blog — go check it out, see if you can spare a couple bucks. You’ll get something neat that you want, and help a fellow knitter.  Just do it! 🙂

Hexipuff Update

Back in February, I decided to enter the madness that is the Beekeeper’s Quilt.  Beginning with my own sock-yarn leftovers, I began making hexipuffs … which quickly led to swapping with other puff-ers (and blankie-makers, et al.).  From there my decent into madness was swift and irreversible. I developed a daily puff habit, and some days puffed more than once. I’m going for 366 in 2012, and as of today I have 169 puffs completed.  Given my late start, I’m actually keeping up and even catching up — I’m only 27 puffs “behind” where I ought to be today (196 puffs).

Weirdly, my puffs-to-date make a perfect hexagon of puffery, with eight puffs per side:

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Lucky for me, I have lots (and LOTS) of mini skeins still to go — I’ve slowed down a bit on swapping for myself, but I’ve also become a mod in the Minimall group on Ravelry. Minis for one, Minis for all!

Pom pom says it better than me … Kerrie Allman is up to her same old tricks. Every bit of evidence (excepting Kerrie’s word, which is worthless) points to her and her unreliable family committing new acts of deception and fraud almost directly on the heels of the collapse of ACM.

A photographer has confirmed that Kerrie Allman contacted her on June 7th, asking to publish her photos in a wedding magazine. No payment offered, naturally — the exposure is payment enough??

Please do not buy or contribute to Kerrie’s new magazines, published under the group name Craft Magazine Shop:
* Handmade Weddings
* Modern Quilting
* Simply Sewing
* Simply Beautiful

Sally's avatarPomPom

So Kerrie Allman has no connection with Craft Magazine Shop, the new owners of Modern Quilting, Sew Hip (now Simply Sewing), Handmade Fashions, Simply Beautiful and the new Handmade Weddings?  She’s said so on her blog (now closed to the public).  She’s going off to pastures new and has rented the old ACM offices in Essex for her new ventures.  CMS is based in Huntingdon.

Pull the other one, Kerrie.

When Tailor Made sold the titles to “Derek Barnes”, they also passed on the subscribers’ list, as a condition of the sale was that the new owners honoured subscriptions.  So how did the new owners get the LAPSED subscribers list?  (They’ve been contacting them).

And the advertisers’ list?  (They’ve been contacting them too)

And how did they get contributions that had been submitted to ACM prior to the Administration?  (They’ve published them in Simply Sewing, without getting any sort of approval…

View original post 175 more words

The ACM Debacle

So … this post has been brewing for a bit.  I don’t know quite where to begin.  Let’s try this:

My name is Rachel, and I was fooled by Kerrie Allman.  

Not once, but twice.

I’m a bit ashamed to admit it, but I gave her TWO of my designs, both of which she published in her magazine.  She never paid me for the first one, but I gave her the second one anyway.  She never paid me for that one either, and it seems unlikely I ever will get paid.

My only consolation is that I have plenty of company: she stiffed many people, including employees, landladies, other designers and crafters, even just regular people who subscribed to her various schemes and got only some (or none) of what they paid for. You can read the full litany of her deviousness on the Ravelry group which “exists to support customers and contributors of ACM (also and previously KAL Media Ltd, Hipknits, Magknits) as they seek resolution of problems such as unpaid designers, missing designer samples, goods not as described, and unsuitable yarn club substitutions.”

You needn’t feel compelled to read through all the details.  However I do wish to say that I lay blame for everything that happened to me personally and to many other designers and crafters squarely at the feet of Kerrie Allman.  By all accounts she is a persuasive and charismatic person who is able to convince people that she is not at fault, and that others are unfairly targeting her.  I leave that judgment up to each individual.

However, if you are considering ANY BUSINESS of any kind with this woman, I urge you to reconsider, research, and reconsider again.  She has conned so many people out of so much money, and has gotten away with it again and again.  Don’t be a fool like me.

My own personal story (dates are approximate):

Fall 2010: I had an idea for a baby dress, and started a prototype. I submitted the design idea to Yarn Forward (now defunct/transformed), and was accepted.  I was still relatively new to designing, so I was very excited!  I discussed yarn types and colors with the editor, and soon enough yarn was winging it’s way to me from the U.K.

Oct 19, 2010: I received the yarn for the sample, and cast on right away for the sample baby dress. I finished as quickly as I could manage, and ran a quick test knit in Free Pattern Testers. Once I was satisfied the pattern was as close to perfect as I could make it, I sent off the sample and the pattern — all in good faith. My contract specified that I would be paid (£80) within 30 days of publication. Then began the waiting. I worked on multiple other design projects, and had zero communication from anyone at the magazine.

July, 2011: Oh look, a pattern page for my baby dress popped up on Ravelry! Sure enough, the pattern had finally been published, but in #38 of “KNIT Magazine” — not the magazine I had originally contracted with.  I waited patiently to get paid …. It was a long wait. Starting in late August, I began sending polite emails, asking if they needed any additional information, and so on.  I never got any kind of satisfactory response — regardless of who I spoke to, I was variously told “soon” or “we need your paypal info” (again) or “we need a new invoice” or other such things.

November 2011: I received a “call for submissions” from the editor of KNIT Magazine.  I understood there had been a transition of some kind from Yarn Forward to KNIT — and I felt more than a little miffed that they would have the gall to ask for MORE designs from me, given they had failed thus far to pay me for my already-published design.  I said as much in an email to the editor … who forwarded me to “Mandy Pigeon” who asked me for a new invoice, with this explanation:

Naomi has brought to my attention your outstanding invoice which unfortunately I do not have a copy of. When KAL Media Limited went into liquidation, I took over all of the outstanding payments. I do not have an invoice for you, would you please kindly send it to me by return and I will add it to the KAL Media outstanding list which All Craft Media are considering paying in order that the designers do not miss out, but payment will not be immediate.
I sent in my invoice for the baby dress (again), asked her to update my email address, and also asked for the PDF of the pattern (another thing that was supposed to be given to me).  I got this note from Naomi (the editor):

Thank you for getting this across to us and for your understanding in the matter.

Mandy has come back from the Christmas break to a sea of emails, so if you could you let me know the issue number that your design was featured in (this pre-dates me as Editor!) and I’ll arrange for the PDF to be sent across to you – Mandy will be in touch shortly regarding your payment.

If you have any more design submissions then please do send them across, I’d love to see them.

and also from Mandy:
Thank you for sending me your invoice. Unfortunately this invoice is for KAL Media Limited the previous owners of Knit magazine and went into liquidation.
 
We are unable to pay invoices for KAL Media Limited, however, if you are looking to design for us at All Craft Media Limited, we may be in a position to add the amount owed to you by KAL Media Limited to any future commissions.
Now that I understand more about what was going on, I’m especially frustrated with myself for failing to be more pushy.  Although my “contract” was with KAL, issue #38 (with my design in it) was put out by ACM — even the photos on Ravelry still have “© All Craft Media” below them. But, at the time, I wanted to be polite and cool — the knitwear design world is TINY and I did not want to get a reputation for being difficult to work with.  Also, I wanted the PDF for my baby dress — I thought at the very least, I could self-publish on Ravelry.

January 2012: As it happened, I had a design that was “all but done” — I had intended to submit it to a local yarn company, but missed the deadline due to email issues (damn Comcast! but that is another whole story). I thought long and hard, and decided to give it to KNIT, if they liked it. My rational was that the company was “new” and I should give them a chance — plus the design was more or less done, so it wasn’t much work on my part.  I talked myself into it.  They said yes:

Firstly, thank you for your understanding in the matter – it’s so
refreshing to receive emails like yours!I would love to commission the Lacy Cardi off of you.As you know, we are working from a low budget at the moment, so, I can
offer you payment of £120.00, which would cover the £80 you are owed
from KAL Media and then £40 for the already designed cardigan.Let me know if this is acceptable and I’ll draw up some paperwork for
you and get an up to date pattern template over for completion.

Have a lovely weekend Rachel and speak soon.

Warm regards,

(PS – will get PDF to you Monday when I’m back in the office)

To be perfectly honest, I was flattered that they wanted the cardi. I was happy that I’d be getting paid for the baby dress. And, I was able to congratulate myself on being reasonable and professional.  Oh, how I wish I hadn’t been!
I had some pleasant back-and-forth conversations with Naomi about deadlines and yarn.  We settled on a brand, and on end-of-March as a deadline.

February 2012: Yarn arrived, I knit. I finished on the 17th, and let her know:

The lacy cardi is knit up, washed, and is blocking (may take a few days, cotton being cotton).  If I mail early next week, what address should I use?
Going back to the berrie pie baby dress, I think you said you might be able to get the PDF to me … any progress on that?
Feb 26th, 2012:

Sorry I haven’t got back to you – this message made it to my spam folder!

If you’ve posted already, it will make it to us in the re-directed post and if not, please address to:

Naomi Leeds
Editor
Knit Magazine
Bullocks Lane
Bullocks Farm
Takeley
Herts
CM22 6TA

If you’d be so kind as to remind me of the issue number again, I’ll get this sorted tomorrow for you, too. 

I replied that I had been waiting for the correct address, so I would send to the new one. I also re-iterated the issue number for the baby dress.  I received a PDF for the baby dress pattern, which was broken (didn’t open).  After some back-and-forth, I got a good copy and was able to put it up for sale on Ravelry.  There was a period of no communication, which by now I’d come to expect.

April 4th, 2012: My last communication from Naomi (before she was fired):

Hey Rachel,

I have your Berry Pie dress here.

I wondered if it would be ok to return this, along with the Elderberry Cardigan (I know how much you liked it!) three months from publication?

If you’d like it back sooner, I’m happy to return it. 

May 11th, 2012: Around about this time, I began to hear rumblings that there were more designers going unpaid by KNIT and other ACM magazines.  I fired off one last desperate attempt:

Just checking in – have you sent the samples back yet? I’m always anxious about the mail.

I was happy to see my cardigan on the cover! Very cool.  My local bookstore stocks KNIT so I’m looking forward to picking up a copy.

The internet is rumbling again about some designers not getting paid … can you confirm that I’m on the “will be paid” list? Sorry to have to ask, but I hope you understand, since the payment for Elderberry is supposed to cover the non-payment for Berries Pie as well.

I never heard from Naomi again. Of course I now know that ACM “went into administration” (which is, I think, UK for “foreclosure”) on May 4th, 2012.

I did receive an edited version of my cardi pattern from a freelance tech editor (who was also not being paid).  She let me know what was going on, and pointed me at the Ravelry group  Friends of the group once known as, which has been a great resource and source of consolation in this whole thing.

I haven’t been totally on top of all developments, but I did hear about an opportunity to get back sample knits … during a two-hour window, in the UK, at the offices that were being shut down.  I managed to get in touch with another designer who was able to get to office during the open window, and she claimed my cardi for me.  She looked for the baby dress, but only found a letter (from Naomi, ironically) indicating that it was being returned to me along with the cardi.  The cardi has since been mailed back to me — a real testament to the GOOD that can be found in groups of knitters! — and my baby dress sample has been located and is on it’s way back.

Somewhere in the middle of all this, the cardi was published in KNIT #49 — salt in the wound, if you ask me.  The pictures weren’t very good, so I took some new ones this past weekend — I strong-armed a tiny friend into modeling for me at a wedding we were both at. I despair of ever getting a formatted PDF of this pattern from KNIT, so I formatted and published my own version, on Ravelry.

A couple things … I don’t blame any of the other people who were also fooled by Kerrie Allman, and who helped her steal and cheat.  From what I understand, they are just as much victims of her as the rest of us.

I also want to say that this experience has been a glaring exception to my general experience with magazines and yarn companies.  I am pleased to report that every other magazine, web publisher, and yarn company I’ve dealt with has been wonderful and timely — and they have all paid me, on time or sooner.